Berlin

Berlin=> is the capital city of Germany and one of the constituent states (Länder) of the Federal Republic, with a population of approximately 4.2 million within its metropolitan area. Berlin is best known for its historical associations as German capital, for its lively nightlife, for its many cafes, clubs, and bars, and for its numerous museums, palaces, and other sites of historic interest. Berlin's architecture is quite varied: though badly damaged in the final years of World War II (in which Berlin formed the backdrop to Nazi Germany's downfall), Berlin has reconstructed itself greatly and it is now possible to see representatives of many different historic periods in a short time within the compact city center, from a few surviving Medieval buildings near Alexanderplatz, to the ultramodern glass and steel structures in Potsdamer Platz.

Districts

Since Berlin was a divided city for such a long time, there is not really one city center. Berlin has many districts, called Bezirk, and each district has its unique style. Each Bezirk is composed of several Kiez - a Berlin term referring to "neighbourhood", with their unique style. Some districts of Berlin are more worthy of the traveller's attention than others. Following are the districts of greatest interest:


Berlin has been officially divided into 12 large districts (Bezirke) since January 2001, a simplification of the previous 23 smaller districts (Stadtteile, Bezirke) that was undertaken purely for administrative efficiency. The smaller districts remain foremost in popular conceptions of the city, however, and are generally of a more practical size and cultural division for the purposes of the traveller.

Understand

Berlin was multicultural before Berlin existed! The surrounding area was populated by Germanic Swabian and Burgundian tribes, as well as Slavic Wends in prechristian times, and the Wends have stuck around. Their modern descendants are the Sorbian Slavic-language minority who live in villages near the Havel and Spree rivers.

Starting in the 1600s, with large numbers of French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution, Berlin has welcomed asylum seekers, religious, economic or otherwise. In the second half of the 20th century Turkish Gastarbeiter (guest workers) and large numbers of immigrants from communist countries, including the former Yugoslavia and Vietnam, not to mention Soviet soldiers who refused to return home, have made Berlin more multicultural than ever.

Berlin is also a youth-oriented city. Before German unification, West Berliners were exempt from the West German civil/military service requirement. Social activists, pacifists and anti-governmental people moved to Berlin for that reason alone. Musicians and artists were given state subsidies, it was easy to stay out all night thanks to liberal bar licensing laws, and studying years at the university was a great way to kill time. Prenzlauer Berg is said to be the place in Europe with the highest baby-per-capita rate.

Berlin is a relatively young city by European standards, dating only to the thirteenth century, and it has always had a reputation as a place filled with people from elsewhere. Someone who has lived in Berlin for ten years will see themselves as a "true Berliner," looking down on the person who has only been there for five. It's sometimes tough to find someone born and raised here! This is part of Berlin's charm: it never gets stuck in a rut.

But it's not all beer bashes and café-sitting. One of the most important "products" produced in Berlin by both academic and company-sponsored institutes is research. Research is exported around the world just like something tangible. It makes more sense to export research than products. German labor costs are tremendously high: unions such as IG Metall make the American auto industry's unions look like tea parties, and high labor costs mean expensive products. Today we have student strikes for no tuition fees. The universities are overfilled and most schools do not get enough money for material. The 18% unemployment rate in Berlin is calculated without students.

Some famous artists of the region and their best-known works include Lucas Cranach the Elder, Lucas Cranach the Younger, Johann Gottfried Schadow, Marlene Dietrich (The Blue Angel) , Leni Riefenstahl (Triumph of the Will), Bertold Brecht (Threepenny Opera), Käthe Kollwitz, Kurt Tucholsky, Thomas and Heinrich Mann, Walter Gropius, Paul Klee, FW Murnau (Nosferatu), Fritz Lang (Metropolis), Volker Schlöndorff, Wim Wenders (Wings of Desire (German: Der Himmel über Berlin)), Blixa Bargeld/Einstürzende Neubauten, Christopher Isherwood, Gunter Grass (The Tin Drum), members of the Bauhaus architectural movement.

A certain uneasy detente still exists between some former residents of East and West Berlin (and Germany). Wessi evolved as a derogatory nickname for a West German; its corollary is Ossi. The implication here is that after reunification, the West Germans automatically assumed the way they do things is the right way, and the way the Easterners should start doing it, too. Westerners got a reputation for being arrogant. They saw the Easterners as stubborn Communist holdouts only interested in a handout from the "rich West." Consider a shirt for sale in a shop inside the Alexanderplatz Deutsche Bahn station: Gott, schütze mich vor Sturm und Wind/und Wessies die im Osten sind ("God, protect me from the storm and wind, and Wessies who are in the East").

Berlin, especially the former East, has evolved into a cultural mecca over the last decade and a half. Artists and other creative souls flocked to the city in swarms after the wall fell primarily due to the extremely low cost of living in the East. Despite the increased prices and gentrification as a result, Berlin has become a center for art, multimedia, electronic music, and fashion among other things. The particularly high number of students and young people in the city has only helped this cause. Just stroll down a street in Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, or Mitte to get a glimpse of the new East Berlin.

Get a good map like the rough guide map or something like that if you're coming here. Also, the public transport system is absolutely amazing here but gets confusing due to lack of signposting in some of the larger stations. Get hold of a good rail map. If youre driving here, the roads can be a bit confusing so be careful and drive defensively. This also applies to cyclists. It is a beautiful city so allow good time to get to see the sights. Hiring a bike is worthwhile. Also, if you're into techno music, this is the techno capital of the world, so there's some very good techno clubs to visit.

Get in

By air

Berlin has three airports =>, all served from the same web site.

Various airlines, such as British Airways and Air France, serve direct flight connections between Berlin and major German and European cities. Lufthansa, the domestic German airline, serves Tegel.

However, it will be difficult to book a direct flight to Berlin from outside Europe. Most airlines will fly to the major hub airports such as Frankfurt and Munich and offer connecting flights to Berlin. As of July 2005, however, both Delta and Continental have reestablished daily direct flights from New York (JFK and Newark).

By bus

As with all major cities, many bus companies offer transport to Berlin.

By train

The German train corporation Deutsche Bahn offers ICE connections between Berlin and other large German cities. If you arrive in Berlin on DB, you are entitled to use your ticket to travel by S-Bahn -- but not U-Bahn (the city subway system) -- to your destination, because the S-Bahn is a part of DB.

Stations During the times of its division, Berlin had two main train stations: Zoologischer Garten or short: Bahnhof Zoo for the West, and the Hauptbahnhof for the East. After the fall of the wall the former Hauptbahnhof has been renamed Ostbahnhof while a brand new main station is being built close to the Reichstag called Hauptbahnhof - Lehrter Bahnhof (currently only served by S-Bahn).

Get around

Berlin's city centre is conveniently compact and most of the major sights and venues can be accessed easily enough on foot. Failing that, or in case of bad weather or little time, traveller can make use of the excellent bus and train services to get around. Taxi services are also easy to use, if much more expensive. You can hail a cab (the yellow light on the top shows the cab is free), or find a taxi stand (Taxistelle). Be sure you get the driver's attention before you get in at a taxi stand; he or she may be asleep.

Check the Berlin route planner => (in English) to get excellent maps and schedules for U-Bahn, Bus, S-Bahn and Tram or to print your personal journey planner. The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) have a detailed fare list on their web site =>. There are vending machines selling all ticket types on the platforms at every station of the U-Bahn and S-Bahn. They offer instructions in many languages including English, but if you need assistance most larger stations have staffed ticket counters where you can ask questions and buy tickets. Before you get on the train you need to validate your ticket using the yellow machines on the platform (or in the bus). You will most likely need to pay a fine if you are caught with an unvalidated ticket. A ticket is valid on all the different types of transportation, with unlimited changes. If you don't know how to get somewhere, or how to get home at night call 030 (for Berlin) 19449 , the 24 hour Customer Service from the BVG. There are also facilities in most U-Bahn stations to contact the Customer Service directly. In some places like Zoologischer Garten and Eberswalderstrasse people will try to sell used tickets to you. It is not legal, but generally save to use (check the validation stamp!) and widely accepted. Don't pay more than half price. You might as well want to give your used tickets if not needed to those poor people. Other will have the pleasure to be offered a cheaper trip.

By train

The Berlin U-Bahn (subway) is something to behold. It is so charmingly precise! There are no turnstiles to limit access, although trying to scam rides can lead to a ticket that can easily be more than €50 (and most residents claim to see ticket checkers once a month; if you're determined to scam, the morning papers print the lines with controllers for the day -- but this is not really helpful as a lot of "undercover" patrols check other lines as well). In addition, all U-bahn stations now have electronic signs that give a time of the next train, and its direction based on sensors along the lines.

Detailed maps can be found in every U-bahn station on the trains. Don't be confused by the alternative tram maps. U-Bahn stations can be seen from afar by their big, friendly blue U signs. Together with the S-Bahn (which is administered by Deutsche Bahn and mostly runs aboveground), the U-Bahn provides a transportation network throughout the greater Berlin that is extremely efficient and fast. On Friday and Saturday nights, as well as during the Christmas and New Year holidays, many U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines run all night, so returning from late night outings is easy, especially given the average start time of most 'parties' in Berlin (11 p.m.?).

For a single journey you can buy a cheap Kurzstrecke for €1.20, but this is only for travelling 3 stops. For a longer single journey you must pay €2.10. This is valid for anywhere in zone A & B. Alternatively spend €5.80 on a zone A & B day travelcard (Tageskarte). This is valid on trams and S-bahn's too. You are unlikely to need to go beyond zone A & B. This is a very large area, even including Schonfeld airport. A pass for one week for all trains and buses in the city costs around €25 and can be purchased near most stations.

By tram

The trams are mostly in East Berlin, as in the West the tram lines were removed to facilitate more vehicular traffic. If you don't have a ticket already, you can buy one inside the tram.

Two types of tram service are available. Metrotrams are similar to what English-speakers call Light Rail, with stops spaced further apart than on local access routes, and with traffic priority measures. Tram routes not so identified stop more frequently and may even include picturesque single-track rides through forested areas far east of the Mitte Bezirk (borough).

Perhaps the most picturesque line in the city, known to transit system officials as "the most beloved tram line in Germany" due to its customers' passionate opposition to reducing service is Line 68. In off-seasons, it has more scenery than people, but when hot weather comes, its lakeshore meanderings and the tiny, gemuetlich village of Alt-Schmoeckwitz at the line's outer terminal draw so many customers that extra trams are pressed into service. Line 68 may be best accessed at the Berlin-Gruenau S-Bahn station, where all types of convenience food and shopping are available.

Beyond the village center and tram terminal, a large forested area of lakefront parkland offers hiking and bicycling possibilities. This was once the home neighborhood for expatriate American, international music and film star Dean Reed. The Line 68 tram itself had one brief moment of glory, in 1936. In its former incarnation as Line 86 it was the best route to the Olympic rowing events and some structures, street names, etc. still reflect that high point.

By bus

Buses are the easiest way to see the city.

Bus 100 leaves from Zoo Station ("Berlin Zoologischer Garten") or U-Bahn station Alexanderplatz and crosses most of historic Berlin, including many of the sites listed here. For the price of a city bus ticket or daily pass it's possible to see much of the city from one of these double-decker tour buses. Sit up top - it's easier to see the Reichstag, as well as the many historic buildings on Unter den Linden. If you're lucky, you'll get the legendary bus-driver who delivers a commentary (in Berlin-accented German) on the trip. Bus 200 takes nearly the same route, but through Potsdamer Platz.

By cycle

Bicycle is another great way to tour Berlin. Berlin offers many Radwege throughout the city (although not all are very smooth), and has very few steep hills. Bicycle is a very popular method of transportation among Berlin residents, and there is almost always a certain level of bicycle traffic. Bicycle rentals are available in the city, although the prices vary. In addition, the Deutsche Bahn (DB) placed many public bicycles => throughout the city in 2003. These can be unlocked by calling a number on the bicycle with a cellphone (handy). Seeing Berlin by bicycle is unquestionably a great way, that will acquaint the traveler with the big tourist sites, and the little Sprees and side streets as well. Although it's good to carry a map, in Berlin maps can be found at any U-Bahn station, and many Bus Stations, thus often eliminating the need to carry a map at all times. For more information on cycling Berlin,

See

Museums

Berlin has a vast array of museums. Most museums and galleries charge admission - usually about €6 or thereabouts for an adult, normal concessions apply. However, many of the state run museums, including most of the ones below, are free on the first Sunday of each month. Nowadays a lot of museums use to grant free entrance 4 hours before closing every thursday.

Landmarks with observation decks

While Berlin has relatively few high-rise buildings, there are several monuments with observation decks. Therefore of special interest are the Fernsehturm, the tallest tower of Germany and the Funkturm, an old lattice steel tower which is the only observation tower standing on insulators. Another famous landmark with observation deck is the victory column (Siegessäule) unfortunately it has no elevator - as opposed to the Berliner Fernsehturm and the Berliner Funkturm.

Further remarkable constructions (not accessible for tourists)

There are some facilities not accessible for tourists, which attract attention, because of their height, their design or their special history.

History

Berlin does not attempt to hide the less savoury parts of its history: a visit to the Topography of Terror (Mitte), for example, provides interesting but sobering insights into the activities of the Gestapo in Berlin during the Nazi years (1933-1945). Many of the walking tours also discuss scenes both of Nazi activity and Cold War tension and terror.

:The Memorial is on Bernauer Strasse which itself is a street with a great deal of Wall history - the first recorded Wall related death was here, one of the famous tunnels and that famous photograph of the DDR border guard leaping over the barbed wire. Various monuments can be found along the entire length of the street, documenting nearby escape attempts and tunnels; captions are in German, English, French, and Russian. The Memorial itself is a complete section of 4th generation wall - both inside and outside sections, and you can peer through from the east side to see the remains of the electric fence and anti-tank devices in the death strip. It really helps you understand what an incredible feat it was to get from one side to the other -- and why so many died doing it.

:At the intersection of Zimmerstrasse and Charlottenstrasse is the famous "You Are Now Leaving the American Sector" sign. The actual guardhouse from Checkpoint Charlie is now housed at the Allied Museum on Clayallee. For a more interesting exhibit, go to the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, a private museum with kitschy memorabilia from the Wall, as well as the devices GDR residents used to escape the East (including a tiny submarine!).

:How did the checkpoint get its name? From the American military spelling alphabet - checkpoints "Alpha" and "Bravo" were at the autobahn checkpoints Helmstedt and Dreilinden. Checkpoint Charlie's atmosphere was not improved any 27 October 1961 when the two Cold War superpowers chose to face each other down for a day. Soviet and American tanks stood approximately 200 meters apart, making an already tense situation worse.

:One of the most notable effects of having such a large French population was their influence on the infamous Berlin dialect. Berlinerisch words such as Kinkerlitzchen (from French "quincaillerie" - kitchen equipment) and Muckefuck (from French "mocca faux" - artificial coffee) are unique to the area.

:The Französischen Dom (Dom = Cathedral) itself was built to resemble the main church of the Huguenots in Charenton, France, destroyed in 1688. It has housed the museum since 1929.

Near the Olympic stadium there is since 1951 a 180.7 metre high Radio mast, which is used for FM-broadcasting.

:For a glimpse at the Olympiastadion when it was new and not falling apart, rent Leni Riefenstahl's movie Olympia. Riefenstahl has been accused of purposefully producing propaganda for the Nazis, though in her autobiography she denies it. There is no argument, however, that she is an excellent filmmaker. Though the Nazis may have helped fund some of her productions, Riefenstahl's artistic vision is undeniable.

Do

Explore

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Recreation

Festivals

Parades

Theatre, Opera, Concerts, Cinema

Berlin has a lot of theater houses, cinemas, concerts and other cultural events going on all the time. Here are some of them

Theatre

Opera

Cinema

It should be noted that all movies which need translation to German are released later in Germany. Concert Houses

Learn

Learn old manufacturing techniques in the Museum für Verkehr und Technik.

Work

Under the current economic climate, work is very scarce in Berlin. If you don't speak good German it's unlikely that you will find work easily, though if you are an EU citizen, a student or have a work permit you may be able to scrape by teaching English or working in a bar but it'll be tough, there's not much work around.

Buy

Since shopping hours were extended last year until 8pm on a Saturday in most places shopping has become much easier. Sunday opening is still sadly not on the horizon, though if you have time to queue you can go to Friedrichstrasse or Ostbahnhof Stations to supermarkets there on Sundays. Note, the queue is usually to get IN the supermarket! However, there are usually some bakerys and small food stores open on Sundays around Oranienstraße in Kreuzberg 36.

Ku'damm remains the main shopping street even now that the Wall has come down. KaDeWe (Kaufhaus Des Westens) at Wittenbergplatz is a must visit even if just for the vast food dept (which has an extremely confusing layout). It's reputedly the biggest department store on Continental Europe and still has an old world charm, with very helpful and friendly staff. Be aware that on a Saturday this shop can be unbearably busy, and seems to be full of rich, arrogant and extremely rude customers, so go during the week if you can.

Fleamarkets

Eat

Eating out in Berlin is ridiculously cheap compared to any other West European capital, or indeed even most other German cities. The city is very multicultural and most cultures' cuisine is represented here somewhere, although it's often very highly modified to suit German tastes.

For eating out, note that it is best to ask if credit cards are accepted before you sit down - it's not that common to accept credit cards in restaurants in some parts (especially the former East) of the city.

Vegetarians can eat quite well with a little bit of research and menu modification despite it seeming like a meat eaters heaven with all the sausage stands. Kebap restaurants have a lovely selection of roasted veg and salad. The falafel they serve is an unusual processed entity but yummy and meat free. Yellow Sunshine is an excellent vegan restaurant serving realistic fake sausages in several german varieties. Get there from Warschauer Strasse SBahnhof and cross the river then ask a german where it is.

One of the main tourist area to eat is Hackescher Markt / Oranienburger Strasse. This area has dramatically changed from what it was even two years ago. Once full of squats and probably not entirely legal bars and restaurants it had some real character and was a great place to be. However, it is rapidly becoming developed and corporatized, even the most famous squat, the former Jewish-owned proto-shopping mall "Tacheles" has had a bit of a face lift.

So this means that while there is a now a good choice of restaurants and bars in the area, they are very overpriced and the food is at best average quality. The "Assel" (it means Woodlouse:) on Oranienburger Strasse furnished with DDR cast off furniture is still relatively authentic and worth a visit, especially on a warm summer night.

Oranienburgerstrasse is also an area where prostitutes line up at night, but don't be put off by this. Prostitution is legal in Berlin and the area is actually very safe.

For extremely cheap and good food you should try Kreuzberg and Neukölln with many, many Indian, Pizza and Döner Kebap restaurants. (It's Neukölln where the Döner Kebap was invented 30 years ago.) Prices start from 1 EUR for a Kebap and 1.50 EUR for a pizza.

For good cheap food Kastanienallee is better, again not what it once was since the developers moved in but still not yet as exploited as Hackescher Markt. It's a popular area with artists, and students and has a certain Bohemian charm. Try Imbiss W, at the corner of Zionskirchstr. and Kastanienallee, where they serve superb Indian-fusion food, mostly vegetarian, at the hands of artist-chef Gordon W. Further up the street is the Prater Garten, Berlin's oldest beer garden and an excellent place in the summer.

Waiters and tipping

Note that the custom here is to tell the waiter how much you're paying, including the tip, when you are presented with the bill, rather than to leave the money on the table. Normally 10% is ok (or round small amounts up to the nearest Euro or next Euro), but waiters don't get paid much anywhere so if the service has been good feel free to tip more. (Waiters in Europe, however, are not dependent on tips to make a living, as they are in the U.S., and it is perfectly possible to survive, albeit not luxuriously, on just one's hourly wage.) Berlin is famous for rude service, though my experience generally is that it's rarely bad per se, just a little cold in some places. The service by contrast is far far better than what you would get in Vienna.

List

Drink

If you want to get some tap water in a bar ask for "Leitungswasser" (if you just say "water" (Wasser), you will receive mineral water), it is common if you drink coffee. They should not charge you for it but you should order some other drink as well...

Clubs

Sleep

Free

Budget

Splurge

Talk

Most people under 30 in Berlin will speak English to varying degrees of fluency, but it might not be as widely spoken as you might expect, so a few key German phrases are worth having.

Stay safe

Berlin is a safe place compared to American cities. However by now most European cities have crime problems as well and Berlin is no exception.

In general one needs to be aware of those problems but also understand that attacks and robberies etc. are "hit or miss" occurances and no part of Berlin would be much of a comparison to American "ghettos" in terms of crime.

Jaywalking as in crossing streets away from pedestrian crossings is quite common but generally only when cars aren't in sight or far away from the jaywalker. Because of that most drivers don't expect careless jaywalking and will expect people to remain on the sidewalk until no cars are in their vicinity. So if one has to jaywalk, "cautious" jaywalking is recommended. There are localized riots on May Day. These riots normally take part in Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain and a small section of Prenzlauer Berg. They usually erupt in the night before May 1st and the evening of May 1st. It is advised to stay clear of these areas at those times. Vehicles should not be parked in these areas either on May 1st.

Get out

This text of this article is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 1.0. It has been slightly modified to fit the general design of this website. The authors of this document are Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel, Eva A, Evan Prodromou, Finn \u00C5rup Nielsen, Lyndon J B Nixon, Mike Smith, Mo, Raf, Ryan Holliday, Thomas Hirsch, Wikitravel user Asb, Wikitravel user Buschaot, Wikitravel user Kwertii, Wikitravel user LeahRoisin, Wikitravel user Nikai, Wikitravel user Shizow, Wikitravel user Thenothing, Yann Forget, simon.farine@gmail.com and the following WikiTravel users: Ae-a, Ahoerstemeier, Bittergirldotcom, Brendio, Caffeine, Chris_j_wood, Cjensen, Guaka, Hedavid, Hypatia, Ilkirk, JensANDMarian, Jpatokal, Maj, Nils, Nojer2, Nzpcmad, PierreAbbat, Pjamescowie, Sverdrup, TriBble. The original version of this article can be seen at http://wikitravel.org/en/Berlin.