Kathmandu

Kathmandu (????????) is the largest city and capital of Nepal and the namesake of the Kathmandu Valley. Once thought to be the fabled and inaccessible Shangri-La, Kathmandu is now a hub for independent travelers as well as a growing vacation spot catering to all budgets.

Understand

Kathmandu is said to have been founded by king Gun Kamdev in 723 AD. According to legend, the area was a lake in the past, but the Buddhist god Manjushri cut open a hill to the south and allowed the water to flow out, making the region habitable. The origin of the present name is unclear, but one of the more likely theories is that it was named after Kastha-Mandap ("temple of wood" in Sanskrit), after a pagoda carved from the single tree on the order of King Laxmi Narashingha Malla in 1596.

Get in

Visas are available on arrival for citizens of most countries. In April of 2004 the cost is $30 for 60 days. There are no trains to Kathmandu and renting a car or motorbike without a driver is very difficult. One passport photo is necessary for the visa form. Those without a passport photo on hand can get a picture taken at a booth opposite the immigration desks.

By plane

Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport' (KTM) airport is the largest, and only international, airport in Nepal. Most flights arrive via Delhi or Bangkok, with very few direct flights from outside of Asia. From Delhi, Indian carriers Jet Airways, Air India, and Sahara Air offer daily flights to KTM. Nepali carriers include Royal Nepal Airways and Cosmic Airlines. Several other international airlines also fly from Delhi to KTM. Because of the recent (Aug. 2005) drop in tourism due to the current political situation, many airlines have been offering discount airfare from Delhi to KTM. Foreigners purchasing tickets in India should expect to pay around 25-50% more for airfare than Indian nationals. The price for a RT ticket from Delhi to KTM purchased in Delhi on Cosmic Air as of (Aug. 2005) was USD $150. However this does not include the airport service charge levied at Tribhuvan International when you leave the country (a mandatory 1695 NRS for foreigners). This raises the total cost of the ticket price by USD $25.

To and from airport

Many hotel and guest houses offer complimentary pick up and delivery from the airport. Taxis are also available. As always, one should negotiate the price beforehand with the driver. A taxi ride to Thamel or Boudha should not exceed 150 NRS. Otherwise, order a taxi at the pre-paid booth inside the airport. It will be more than the usual rate, but probably substantially less then you will pay if you travel by one of free-lance taxis outside without first knowing the going rate.

By bus

The other option for arriving in Kathmandu include buses from India (usually Varanasi or Lucknow) and other parts of Nepal such as Chitwan National Park and the trekking hub of Pokhara. You can enter from Mahendranagar at the extreme East, but you need a visa before hand.

Other options for entry into Nepal are limited.

Get Around

The first thing many visitors may notice about Kathmandu is the general lack of street names (except for major roads such as Tri Devi and Ring Road) and address numbers. In most cases directions are given relative to the nearest chowk or tole (an intersection or square, often with a market) or a noteworthy building such as a temple or restaurant. In the tourist district of Thamel, the Kathmandu Guest House and Hot Breads bakery are two main landmarks.

It is possible to get across the city by foot, but it is not always a pleasant walk and you may want to consider a rickshaw for anything more then wandering around a specific area. Rickshaws are motorised or bicycle driven. Negotiate on a price before you get in, if you can't agree, just look for another driver. Prices go up after dark and in less busy areas.

There are also buses and taxis for longer trips (see Kathmandu Valley for information on getting to Patan and Bakhtapur), but they are not usually used just for getting around town.

See

Durbar Squares

The heart of Kathmandu this ancient square crowded with palaces and temples, including the current incarnation of the Kasthamandap or "Wooden house" that gives the city its name. The square has been in active use since the construction of a palace around 1000 AD.

Enter from Freak street side for free. Magical in the very early morning, Durbar Square can be an exhausting experience due to the overwhelming number of young men offering to be "guides." Be firm with saying "no" if you are not interested, but realize that looking at a map, or even standing still for a moment will be an invitation to a dozen other would-be "helpers".

There are more than a dozen buildings and statues of note in this small areas. They include:

Do

Kathmandu itself has limited activities for visitors beyond the amazing sightseeing and general experience of being there', but it is the starting point for numerous adventures in the rest of the country including trekking, rafting, jungle adventures, and more extreme sports.

Yoga

Massage

Festivals

Kathmandu and Dubar Square is the center for many of Nepal's festivals. Note that many businesses are closed for all of these holidays-- and often a few days before and after. Dasain in particular tend to shut down much of the city for October.

Buy

Books

Kathmandu is a great place to stock up or trade in reading material. Used bookstores cover everything from backpacker favorites to classics to local history and culture.

Eat

Traditional Tibetan dumplings, momos have been borrowed to become tourist tapas. Try them fried or steamed stuffed with buffalo, chicken, or veggies with a Tuborg or San Miguel beer. In a local place expect to pay 25 rs for a dozen momos, 45-75rs in a tourist place. Also a good place to sample Newari and Tibetan dishes.

Besides the aforementioned momos tibetan cuisine includes a variety of other dishes, some based around a noodle soup, like a thukpa. A nepali set meal will usually include rice, dhal, vegetable/meat curry, a vegetable dish, chutney and curd. Expect to pay around 120-280 NRS at a touristed place, much less at local places. Chia (similar to the Indian chai), a milky spiced tea, is ubiquitous and good for a break to calm one's nerves.

Thamel

There are dozens of tourist restaurants clustered in the Thamel district serving everything from Middle Eastern to Mexican food. Indian and Nepali dishes are always the best tasting-- and best priced. Don't hesitate to state your preference for spiciness. A good place to sample Korean food. Travelers who venture into smaller places are often rewarded with better prices and friendlier staff. Inspect your bill and count your change at the places frequented by short trip tourists.

Outside Thamel

Yes, there is a whole world waiting outside Thamel!

Boudha

Drink

Coffee

Nepal is also a coffee producing country, though the people are famously tea drinkers. Most often coffee comes as a dishwater-colored cup of instant, however, good coffee IS available. The first thing to remember is that people who don't drink coffee don't understand coffee. When ordering, try ordering "Strong coffee", as opposed to just "Coffee", to minimise those dishwater blues. Also note that cafes here don't follow the equal espresso, milk and froth rule. Expect your cappuccino to be anywhere from very little froth in large cup to something laced with whipped cream. And there is little difference between latte and cappuccino. Places to look for ground coffee, either drip or espresso, are:

Bars

Beer and mixed drinks are available at almost every bar and restaurant. For a quick drink and cheap cultural experience try the local 'Nepali wine' (raksi) or 'Nepali Beer' (chang) neither of which taste anything like their namesakes. Ask for these at local places. San Miguel, Everest Beer and Tubor beer are the principal beers served in Kathmandu.

Sleep

Virtually all tourist accommodations are located in Thamel, near the Kathmandu Guesthouse. Upscale hotels tend to be a few blocks away on Tri Devi Marg near the Royal Palace. A few guest houses still remain on Freak Street below Durbar Square, they tend to be somewhat cheeper, and a bit less well cared for than Thamel, but the neighbourhood is more quiet and there are fewer touts.

Prices can range from $1 - $350 for a double room.

Budget

Mid-range

The Puskar Guest House has its own Carrom Board and you are welcome to play your own music on the rooftop stereo. A very reasonably priced place to stay, with good service.

Splurge

Get out

Stay Safe

Canadian Consular Affairs, UK Foreign and Commonwealth office, and The US State department all discourage non-essential travel to Nepal due to an ongoing military conflict between Maoist and the government. Visitors should avoid public demonstrations and register with their consulate on arrival. Although tourists haven't been directly targeted with politically motivated violence, it is easy to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. The frequent strikes are a major inconvenance for tourists as all transportion stops, and shops and restaurants close. Following the news and government warnings is important, be sure to check on current road conditions before leaving Kathmandu.

While in Kathmandu, always keep an eye on belongings, violent crime is rare, but pickpockets are not. If your hotel room door doesn't have a good lock or safe windows, store valuables on your person or in a hotel safety deposit box at all times. As with any large city, avoid walking alone in unlit areas.

Contact

Internet cafes are almost stacked on top of each other in Thamel and around the stupa at Boudha, from about 15Rs an hour.

External link

This text of this article is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 1.0. It has been slightly modified to fit the general design of this website. The authors of this document are Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel, Evan Prodromou, MarkBrough, Ryan Holliday, Yann Forget, keith bassingthwaighte and the following WikiTravel users: Dhum_Dhum, Hypatia, Jpatokal, Maj, Mark, Nils, Nzpcmad, Ravikiran_r, Xltel, WindHorse. The original version of this article can be seen at http://wikitravel.org/en/Kathmandu.