Manaus

Manaus is a Brazilian city of about one million, located where the two main branches of the Amazon River meet. The two streams flow side by side for many miles, different in color, mixing in eddies: the "Meeting of the Waters."

Understand

Manaus was once the world center of rubber production and became very wealthy. When rubber tree seeds were smuggled abroad, it relapsed into poverty which was alleviated by being declared a special economic zone, bringing industry and money back. Now it's sliding back a little because other more accessible cities have also been given the same status, and Manaus' remoteness make it less competitive.

The city is pleasant and friendly, and is still a major port, and a good base for river tours.

The Rio Negro (northern) branch of the Amazon is the color of strong tea, peaty brown and its comparative acidity means few mosquitoes. At Manaus the Amazon rises and falls almost twenty meters between seasons. In May and June it's at its peak, full and very wide, spreading way out into the trees. In November December it's low; still massive but with sandbanks showing.

Get in

By plane

Manaus is about three hours by air from São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro. Also, LAB Airlines (Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano) flies three times a week from Miami, Florida and Santa Cruz, Bolivia. This could save a substantial amount of backtracking for those not wishing to go all the way to São Paulo or Rio.

By boat

Manaus is a major destination for boats on the Amazon River. From Belém on the Atlantic Coast, it takes about five days. Boats go to Porto Velho two-three times per week. Tabatinga on the border with Colombia can also be reached by boat from Manaus, with connections further on to Iquitos in Peru.

By bus

Due to road conditions, there is very little (if any) long-distance bus service originating from major cities in Brazil. There are daily buses to Boa Vista in the north and to destinations in Venezuela.

See

The Opera House (Teatro Amazonas) was built during the heyday of rubber trade, using materials from all over the world, and was once visited by all the most famous opera divas and maestros. There are guided tours, available in English on request.
The city's main market, Mercado Municipal, is modeled after the Les Halles market in Paris.
Natural Science Museum (Museu de Ciencias Naturais da Amazônia), Estrada Belem s/n, Colonia Cachoeria Grande. Few locals visit this museum, know about it, or would even want to, considering that it's basically critters they'd find (almost) in their backyard. For visitors, though, it's a chance to see a live pirarucu and other fauna (mostly preserved) of the region. The museum was constructed single-handedly by a Japanese entomologist (specializing in butterflies) with his own money and resources. It's out of the way and about half an hour by taxi. The nearby INPA is a preserve and research center with birds and other wildlife.

Do

River tours. If you take a river tour, go up the Rio Negro. From a three-night river boat trip from Manaus up the Rio Negro with a guide, you can expect to see some wildlife and visit some of the forest remnants, but two weeks or more are needed to reach untouched areas. Small two-story river boats carry five to ten people, sleeping in hammocks on the upper deck. Large boats carrying hundreds ply the river too, but the big boats don't stop between ports.
Ponta Negra is a popular river beach, some distance west of the city.

Sleep

Budget

Lots of cheap hotels and pensãos can be found in the area around Av. Joaquim Nabuco.

Hotel Rio Branco, Rua dos Andradas 484, 233-4019. A real backpacker dive. Rooms are tiny and in some cases without windows.
Pensão Sulista, Av. Joaquim Nabuco 347, 234-5814.
Hotel Continental, Rua Coronel Sergio Pessoa 189, 233-3342. A few blocks removed from the main strip; pleasant and economical.