Marrakech
Marrakech (?????) (also known as Marrakesh) is a city in Morocco.
Get in
By air
Most international flights arrive in Marrakesh, and plenty of low cost companies now fly to Marrakesh, though some companies arrive in Casablanca and require a plane change for the 45 minute flight to Marrakech. The Marrakesh airport is just 10 minutes from town and small taxis are plentiful. You can fly from several European cities direct to Marrakech on Atlas Blue http://www.atlas-blue.com which is an offshoot of Royal Air Maroc http://www.royalairmaroc.com .
If going by petit taxi, make sure to have the driver use his meter or agree the price beforehand. As you exit the airport terminal, there is a sign which actually gives you an idea of how much the taxi ride should cost. As to whether you can convince or bargain with the driver to use these prices is another matter however. It really all depends on the number of taxis and potential passengers that are around.
By train
Trains arrive from Casablanca hourly, and regularly from other destinations such as Rabat. The train station is located in the recently developed ville nouvelle. Frequent local buses leave from just across the street into the medina and modern tourist area. 'Petit taxi' drivers will also be quick to offer their service, but pay no more than Dh 10 - 15 for this short ride.
By bus
Most CTM and private bus lines arrive at the long distance bus station near Bab Doukkala, a 20 minute walk (Dh 15 - 20 by petit taxi) from Jema el-Fna. Supratours and Eurolines buses, however, will arrive at the main train station.
Get around
Once in the medina, everything can be seen on foot, though you'll be doing a lot of walking. For exploring more of the city, buses and 'petit taxis' are plentiful. Almost all buses stop at Jema El Fna and Place Youssef Ben Tachfine and fares range from Dh 2 to Dh 5 depending on the distance. Important municipal bus lines are:
- No 1 - Towards Gueliz
- No 8 - Stops at the central train station
- No 10 - Stops at the long distance bus station
- No 11 - Will drop you off at the gardens of Menara
See
While not considered as well preserved as other Moroccan cities such as Fez, Marrakech offers several historical and architectural sites as well as some interesting museums.
- Jema El Fna is the highlight of any Marrakech night. Musicians, dancers and story tellers pack this square at the heart of the medina, filling it with a cacophony of drum beats and excited shouts. Scores of stalls sell a wide array of Moroccan fare (see the Eat section) and you will almost certainly be accosted by women wanting to give you a henna tattoo.
- The souks (suuqs) or markets of Marrakech, just adjacent to Place Jema El Fna, is where you can buy most anything. From spices to shoes, jalabas to kaftans, tea pots to tagines and much, much more. Undoubtedly, being a foreigner will still mean you will end up paying a higher price for whatever you are buying than a native would, but be sure to bargain nonetheless.
- Koutoubia mosque - Just adjacent to Jema El Fna. It is said that the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque is to Marrakech as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. The minaret is visible from Gueliz which is connected to the Medina by Ave. Mohammed V.
- Majorelle gardens - in Gueliz. With entrance fee of 30 dirhams, it is more expensive than other attractions but provides an excellent respite from the hustle and bustle of the city streets.
- Ben Youssef madrasa
- El Bahia palace
- El Badi palace - the view from the terrace is majestic
Buy
Marrakech is home to a large tanning industry, and leather goods of high quality can be bought here cheaply. Check out camel leather items especially - jackets, round poufs, and handbags.
Also of interest would be items made of the local cactus silk, which is apparently made from weaving cactus fibres mixed with a small amount of silk, and dyed with vegetable dyes. On offer are scarves, handbags, tablecloths, bedspreads and throws in stunning colors.
Be sure to wander round the potters' souk, and look for brightly coloured platters and bowls, as well as tagines in all sizes
Remember that bargaining in souks is expected. Start with 50% of the asking price, and work from there. A good negotiation can be a fun experience.
Eat
The main night market at Jema El Fna is definitely worth a visit, and the food is priced on menus. In little back streets the ambience is more quiet, although the price is higher and the quality may vary a lot. In the square itself there are some locals such as:
- Chez Chegrouni: Near the main entrance to the market. Tagine 35 DH, Harira 15 DH. Maybe the best cheap restaurant in the square.
- Cafe Alhamra: On the edge of the square, serves up salads, pizza and pasta as well as a tagine of the day. Their rooftop is a good place to have a late night coffee and pastry while watching the events in the square below.
- Cafe Agrana: On the edge of Jema El Fna. Try the pastilla - a sweet/savory pie (either chicken or, for the adventerous, pigeon) that melts in the mouth
Take care eating the offered food on the main market place Jema El Fna and the other cheap restaurants. Many of the dishes, including goat heads and bowls of local snails (hot and tasty) may seem too adventurous for the Western palate, but the main problems are salads, which can cause diarrhea.
Vegetarians will find that there are few options outside the ubiquitous Tagine avec Legumes.
For more upscale eateries, and especially for non-Morroccan cuisine, you will have to go outside the Medina to Ville Nouvelle.
Drink
Hot sweet mint tea is served in all restaurants and cafes. Note that women may feel more comfortable have a drink or snack at a pastry shop or restaurant as cafes are traditionally for men.
Street vendors offer fresh orange juice (jus d'Orange) by the glass for Dh 2.50. Try it with a dash of salt like the locals, but be wary of vendors who try and water the juice down with potentially dodgy tap water.
Wine and beer will rarely be found outside of restaurants catering to tourists.
Sleep
There are three main zones to sleep: Medina, Guéliz and the surroundings of the city. The Medina has the highest concentration of very cheap hotels and ryads or small palaces.
Guéliz is much more quiet, and most of the hotels are mid price (including showers in the room, breakfast service...). Going to the medina from the Guéliz by taxi costs about 10-15 DH.
The surroundings have all the huge touristic hotels, the ones that usually come with the travel agencies offers. They can be far, but have big swimming pools, restaurants, and many services.
Medina
The Medina is packed with Riads (old grand houses converted into hotels and inns.) While more expensive, these are a wonderful place to stay to get a feel for life in Marrakech. Most can be booked in advance via RiadsMorocco.com=>.
The budget conscious will have more luck in the streets and alleyways south of Jema El Fna, which are packed with discount hotels offering singles from Dh 50. Popular options with backpackers include:
- Hotel Smara is very clean, friendly people, nice rooms. (77 sidi Bouloukat ,Tel:+212 44 44 55 68). Near Jema El Efna. Dh 50 and doubles Dh 80.
- Hotel Essaouira (Tel:443805, 3 Derb Sidi Bouloukat) has singles with shared bath from Dh 50 and doubles from Dh 80.
- Near Hotel Essaouira is the very friendly and clean Hotel Imouzzer (Tel:44.53.66, 74 Derb Sidi Bouloukate) which also has a pleasant rooftop terrace cafe. Singles / doubles with shared bath are Dh 50 / 100, hot showers Dh 5 and cash-strapped travellers can sleep on the terrace for just Dh 25.
- Hotel Ali (Tel:444979, Rue Moulay Ismail) Offer beds in ensuite, air conditioned Dorms and rooftop terrace mattresses for 60 Dirham per person, per night (about 5 euro) including cooked breakfasts served with OJ and fresh coffee. They have seen a small price rise (about 10 dirham) due to their somewhat justified popularity. Dorm guests can use the internet cafe for 5 Dirhams per hour. They have all the amenities a traveller could ask for, including a laundry service and free internet access for private room guests, money exchange, a lovely terrace restaurant with great views of Jema El Efna and even a downstairs hammam.
Private rooms are available with a maximum per person price of 160 Dirham per night inc b/fast, free internet and a daily traditional Hammam. Hotel Ali have just launched a website with both email and secure credit card reservations at http://www.hotel-ali.hostel-marrakech.co.uk
- Riad Dar Mimouna =>, Sidi M'Barek n°151, Sidi Mimoun, tel +212 44 38 40 78, fax +212 44 38 40 79. A few minutes walk from Place Jemâa El Fna and the Koutoubia Mosque. Breakfast is included and is served at the terrace. There is also a hammam at the terrace, free for use by guests and you would just need to tell them in advance when you would like to use it.
Guéliz
- Résidance Goumassine (Tel: (0)44 433086, Fax: (0)44 4333012, 71 Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni). Residence with different kinds of rooms for about 300DH the double room with either kitchen or Moroccan saloon. Don't expect to reduce the price if you stay there many days. It has a small swimming pool and a bar that can serve (quite expensive) breakfasts.
- There is a clean youth hostel (Tel: (0)44 7713, Rue Mohammed el-Hansali) near the train station with dorm beds from Dh 45, it has an 11.30 pm curfew and is fair distance from the action in the heart of the medina. A taxi can cost about 15-20 DH.
Get out
Marrakech can make a good base for exploring the Atlas Mountains or for organising one to four day Sahara treks. While there are countless agencies on Ave Mohammed V that will organise such tours for those seeking the comfort of an air-conditioned 4x4 and have money to spare, budget travellers may want to check out the Marrakech stalwart Sahara Tours (Rue Bam Marme et Mouahidine, Tel (044) 42-79-77 / 42-97-47 . fax (044) 42-79-72) who offer three day tours from Dh 950. Most hotels in the medina are Sahara agents and will be able to provide information on these treks.
The impressive 110 meter waterfall, the Cascades d'Ouzoud are about 160km away and are well worth a day trip visiting.
By Air
Marrakech is connected by air to other domestic destinations such as Agadir, Casablanca (daily), Fes (daily), Ourzazate, Al Hoceima and Tangier. Contact Royal Air Morocco http://www.royalairmaroc.com (Tel: 43 62 05; 197 boulevard Mohamed V) for more details.
By Train
Train connections are available from the train station (Tel: 44 77 68; Avenue Hassan II) to Casablanca and Rabat, which connect on with most domestic rail destinations in the country. There is a train hourly during all the day. As always, first and second class differ only in the amount of people and that seats are not reserved in second class, but since Marrakech is the first station, you'll find place if you arrive with time to the station.
By Bus
From the long distance bus station, CTM and private bus companies service destinations such as to Agadir, Safi, Casablanca, El Jadida, Essaouira, Fes, Meknes, Ouarzazate, Rabat and Taroudant.
Stay safe
Scams
Aside from the usual scams listed on the Morocco page, watch out for tourist touts that offer to take you to the medieval dye pits which, unlike the popular dye pits in Fez, are not worth the visit. Note that the touts work in pairs. The first takes you to the dye pit (which you could probably manage with a map) and then introduces you to his "friend" to guide you round the pits. They both expect to be paid, and are prepared to follow you incessantly for a very long time if you do not give them enough money.