Oxford

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Oxford => is the oldest university city in England, situated some 50 miles (80 km) to the west of the capital London in its own county of Oxfordshire, and located on the rivers Thames and Cherwell. Together with Cambridge (the second oldest university city and Oxford's great rival), Oxford has long represented the English academic establishment and élite ("Oxbridge"), a haven of tradition and endeavour. Oxford's famous "Dreaming Spires" refer to the medieval churches and colleges that dominate the bustling modern town in all their Gothic splendour. Picturesque architecture and a vibrant modern life (driven by students, light industry and technology) set in the rolling countryside of Oxfordshire make this a great destination.

Understand

History

Oxford was first occupied in Saxon times, and was initially known as "Oxanforda". The settlement began with the foundations of St Frideswide's nunnery in the 8th century, and was first mentioned in written records in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle for the year 912. By the 10th century Oxford had become an important military frontier town between the kingdoms of Mercia and Wessex and was on several occasions raided by the Danes.

The University of Oxford => was founded in the 12th century and therefore constitutes the oldest English-speaking university. Oxford, like Cambridge, differs from many other universities in that there is no 'campus' as such, and no central university building. Instead, the University consists of approximately 30 colleges and associated buildings, such as the Exam Schools (on the High Street, closed to the public), the world-famous Bodleian Library (main buildings in Radcliffe Square, off the high street - limited access to the public), and several world-class museums. Each college has its own individual character, some date from the 13th century, others are merely a few decades old. Many of the colleges are closed to the public, particularly during term times; some, however, are open at different times. For example: Christ Church (the college of "Brideshead" fame) is mostly open, and has the added bonus of having a (small) cathedral attached, where excellent music is performed at Evensong everyday, it also has an excellent art gallery =>. Some of Christ Church's buildings are used in films such as "Harry Potter". Other colleges of note are Magdalen (pronounced 'maudlin'), which has a deer park, and those along the High Street, all of which have an impressive list of alumni. Shelley fans should visit University College. Former women-only colleges such as the pretty Somerville (Woodstock Rd) further to the North of the centre are interesting to get a feel for the range of colleges in Oxford.

Orientation

Central Oxford is built around two intersecting throughfares which intersect at Carfax:

the High Street, or "the High" => - running east-west, this is the main road coming in from Headington and the London road
running north-south is another road, essentially continuous, but with separate ancient names for its various stretches - St Aldates and St Giles =>, separated by the Cornmarket (now a pedestrianised shopping boulevard)

Get in

By air

The nearest airports to Oxford are those situated around London to the south-east or Birmingham to the north, with most foreign travellers preferring the former.

London Heathrow is certainly the closest airport to Oxford, followed by Gatwick in terms of size and popularity. Road access from both Heathrow and Gatwick (fastest) is by M25 (heading north and west respectively), thereafter the M40 to Oxford's outskirts (follow the signs).

Oxford Bus Company => runs several airport bus services to Oxford Gloucester Green bus station (running in from Headington and up the High with several convenient stops - check web pages below):

between London Heathrow and Oxford =>, £16 single, £17 return, frequency: half-hourly 5am-9pm, less frequently thereafter
between London Gatwick and Oxford =>, £20 single, £25 return, frequency: hourly 6am-8pm, less frequently thereafter

By road

Oxford is linked to London, the capital of England, by the 50 mile (80 km) south-eastern stretch of the M40 motorway (depending on traffic - which can be heavy - the journey varies between 50 - 90 minutes). The north-western continuation of the M40 also conveniently links Oxford with England's second largest city Birmingham and the West Midlands.

Parking and access restrictions are deliberately stringent in the narrow streets of central Oxford, policed both by wardens and by cameras, with heavy fines applicable. Visitors driving to Oxford, especially during weekdays, are advised to use the municipal Park and Ride => services which are located in the city outskirts on all sides of Oxford (these are well signposted). A small daily parking fee applies (60 p) and the return, dedicated bus charges £1.90 for the return trip to the city centre.

By train

Oxford has a large train station situated in the western part of the city (immediately west of the city centre and south of Jericho). Trains run to / from western London (Paddington and Ealing Broadway mainline stations), Birmingham and Manchester.

By bus

Frequent and comfortable coach services run from several convenient bus stops to Gloucester Green coach station in Oxford, normally starting at Londons Victoria Station, running westwards via Marble Arch, Notting Hill and Shepherd's Bush and then onwards to Oxford. Stops in Oxford include beside others Thornhill Park and Ride station, Headington, Brookes University, High Street (which is best for daily visitors, as it it right in the middle of town) and finally Gloucester Green, which is also well situated. Bus companies between London and Oxford include OxfordTube =>, oxfordespress => and low-cost Megabus.com =>. Prices range between £10 and £13 for a an adult day return ticket.

There are also regular bus services between Oxford and London's Heathrow and Gatwick airports with theairline =>.

There are also a number of regional buses between Oxford and other local destinations.

Get around

You cannot generally drive through the city centre, owing to parking and access restrictions. The Oxford park-and-ride system => is excellent, however (see above, Get in).

Everything in Oxford is within easy walking distance; for destinations further afield there are many buses that run regularly.

Tours of the city are available on foot or by bus, with live commentary talking about the history and tradition of the university and city.

Locals either walk, or use bicycles.

See

Visitors to Oxford should definitely visit at least one museum, visit at least one college and - if possible - hear one of the world class college chapel choirs. A walking tour (see 'Do' below) is a good way of achieving this.

Landmarks

the Bodleian Library =>
the Sheldonian Theatre => - this unusual building was Sir Christopher Wren's first major architectural commission. At the time he was a Professor of Astronomy at the University. There are a series of busts outside the theatre facing Broad St with strange expressions and facial hair. It is not symbolic of anything but is instead a 19th century study in beards
the Radcliffe Camera, Radcliffe Square - built 1737-1749, the round Camera functions as a reading room for Oxford students and so is not generally accessible - the grand exterior, however, is well worth viewing...
the University Church of St Mary the Virgin =>, entrances from the High and Radcliffe Square - some of the best views of Oxford are afforded from the tower of the church, dating to 1280. The church itself, rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries (with various additions after this time), is full of architectural and historical interest. The church has a coffee shop, "The Vaults and Garden", tel 01865 279112, now re-opened under the management of Will Pouget (already known for his 'Alpha Bar' in the Covered Market) and specialising in organic food and fair trade tea and coffee.

Colleges

Christ Church => - the college of Brideshead Revisited fame, Christ Church was founded in 1525 by Cardinal Wolsey as "Cardinal College". Noted for associations with Lewis Carroll (Alice in Wonderland) and was a location for the filming of the first Harry Potter film. The Christ Church Meadows south of the college is a beautiful green space offering nice views of the spires and quiet corners to relax.
Magdalen College =>, far east end of the High Street; tel 01865 276000; open 1 Oct-27 June 1pm-6pm or dusk (whichever is the earlier), 28 June-30 September 12 noon-6pm; admission adults £3, seniors, children, students £2; maximum 20 people in a group; visitor shop and afternoon café - founded in 1458 by William of Waynflete, Bishop of Winchester, Magdalen is frequently the first college seen by many visitors if coming into Oxford on the London Road. Famous alumni include CS Lewis, Oscar Wilde, Seamus Heaney and Edward Gibbon.

Museums and Galleries

the Ashmolean Museum =>, Beaumont Street, between Worcester and St. Giles, +44 1865 278000, open Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 2pm-5pm, admission free - vast, impressive, and soon to undergo major redevelopment, the Ashmolean is Britain's oldest public museum, having been founded in 1683. The museum displays ancient art from Egypt, the Near East, Greece and Rome, a fine collection of Western art and artefacts and a sizable Eastern Art collection. Highlights include the Amarna Princess Fresco and the Alfred Jewel. A restaurant and gift store also feature.

Oxford University Museum of Natural History =>, Parks Road opposite Keble College, tel 01865 270949, open daily 12noon-5pm except for Easter and Christmas, admission free - houses the University's scientific collections of zoological, entomological, geological, palaeontological and mineralogical specimens, accumulated in the course of the last 3 centuries. The exhibits occupy a large central court with elegant Victorian cast-iron columns supporting the great glass roof, and surrounded on four sides by upper and lower arcades. They are devoted to the history and diversity of life on Earth and the rocks and minerals that form it. Highlights include the famous Oxford Dodo, the largest display of dinosaur remains outside London, a great collection of skeletons, and the nesting swifts in the Museum's main tower.
the Pitt Rivers Museum =>, South Parks Road, open daily 12noon-4.30pm, admission free - Oxford's museum of anthropology and ethnology, still largely arranged in Victorian style, making this a rare museum experience. The Pitt Rivers requires time and effort but gives great satisfaction. Look out for the shrunken heads! (Entrance to the Museum is through the Oxford University Museum Natural History (OUMNH) on Parks Road - the entrance is at the far side of the lobby from the main entrance to the OUMNH; visitors therefore need to walk across the ground floor to reach it).
The Oxford Story => - museum and ride popular among tourists
The Museum of Oxford => - the museum tells the tale of the growth of the city and University.
Modern Art Oxford, 30 Pembroke Street. A free entry art gallery often showing temporary exhibitions of art and photography by renowned contemporary artists, which are accompanied by well designed talks and workshops.

Parks, Gardens, Open Spaces

University of Oxford Botanical Gardens =>, Rose Lane and the High Street, opposite Magdalen College, tel 01865 286 690, open daily 9am-4.30pm (November-February), 9am-5pm (March-April & October), 9am-6pm (May to September), last admission approx 30-45 mins before closing

Do

Tours

Walking tours, that last about two hours, from St Aldates, near the centre, are an excellent way of visiting some of the more famous colleges, such as Christ Church and Merton.

the Oxford Guild of Guides offers daily walking tours of the city, including visits to college and university sites. Tours last approximately two hours and leave the Tourist Information Centre at 15-16 Broad Street at 11am and 2pm, with extra tours during high season. Further information can be found on the Tourist Information Office website =>. Groups can also book tours directly with the Guild, and specialist tours are available on a wide range of topics, including architecture, science, literature and art - see the Guild of Guides website for further information.

Blackwell's, the famous Oxford book store located on Broad Street, runs 3 differently themed walking tours of Oxford from its Broad Street premises from 30 March - 30 October each year. Tickets £7 adults, £6.50 concessions (Literary Tour is £6 and £5.50 respectively), bookings and enquiries tel +44 01865 333 606, fax +44 01865 794 143, mailto:oxford@blackwell.co.uk :
*the Literary Tour of Oxford (every Tu 2 pm, Th 11 am, Sa 12 noon)
*the 'Inklings' Tour (We 11.45 am)
*Alice in Wonderland Tour (Fr 2 pm)

A number of independent general and ghost tours also start nearby in Broad Street.

Sport and Recreation

Punting - in the summer, punting is an ever-popular activity, involving propelling a wooden boat along the river with a pole. You can also hire someone to do the punting for you, although it is easy and fun to do it yourself). Bring a bottle of wine and good balance along for a more interesting trip (although it helps to have a sober crew member along!) Punt rental available at Magdalen Bridge => and from Salter's => at Folly Bridge.
In the summer, check out the nesting Swifts (birds) at the Oxford Museum of Natural History => - these elegant little birds have been nesting in ventilation flutes in the tower of the University Museum for many years, providing a wonderful opportunity for scientists. Visitors to the Museum can watch live pictures from three of the nests in the tower on a television monitor, from May to August.

Stage and Screen

Oxford has four city-centre cinemas, sceening mainstream (Odeon) and art films (Ultimate Picture Palace, Phoenix Picturehouse). The latter sometimes has showings at 11.30pm for night owls.

Oxford also hosts a number of London productions on tour, as well as playing host to a large number of student productions each year. Oxford has a lively student-drama scene. The following theatres put on amateur student productions during term-time, which are often very good value for money:

Burton Taylor Theatre - tickets sold at the Box Office of the Oxford Playhouse (see above)
Old Fire Station Theatre (OFS), George Street
The Oxford Playhouse => - worthwhile plays
New Theatre - popular shows, musicals and ballets.

Concerts

The Sheldonian Theatre. Recently voted the most uncomfortable concert hall in England, the Sheldonian never has a shortage of both professional and amateur classical music concerts.

Eat

There is an abundance of cafés and restaurants representing virtually all cuisines in Oxford city centre, and along the Cowley Road. More restaurants are to be found in the Jericho area. There are also kebab vans which appear in the evening; these are only advisable once drunk. If vegetarian or vegan, you are well-catered for in Oxford, given the "alternative" lifestyles of many Oxford residents.

Alpha Bar, Covered Market. This place serves organic, fairly traded and much vegetarian and vegan food and is great for a bite to eat at lunchtime.

Budget

G&D's, St Aldates and Little Clarendon St - offers superb ice-cream, and has an endearing love of cows. Try the chocolate brownies!
Jamal's, Walton St - cheap Indian in Jericho perfect for those on a budget. BYO alcoholic beverages.
Cafe Zouk =>, High St - this is an Indian found centrally along the High Street. Meals are unusually presented, and perhaps more authentic. Appeared to be closed April 2005?
Georgina's, upstairs, Avenue 2, Covered Market, tel +44 01865 249527 - fairly groovy, hippyish decor and atmosphere in this small café, good for young and old, eclectic music (sometimes a bit loud!) and posters on walls / floor / ceiling, wooden tables and strewn magazines, reasonable (if not the cheapest) prices: mug of tea £0.90, croissant and jam £1.40, good pasta dishes for lunch.
Noodlebar, Gloucester Green - Cheap, filling, tasty Japanese-based cuisine. The closest thing in Central Oxford to a Wagamama.
Cafe de Sofi, Covered Market - you can't beat one of their baked potatoes for value-for-money at lunchtime. Hot, cheap, and a wide variety of tasty fillings. Also does good baguettes, paninis etc.
Sainsburys, Westgate Shopping Centre - Grocery supermarket. Of special interest to the ultra-low budget backpacker or just anyone looking for a bargain is the clearance fridge. Grab a bag of cheap food and eat it straight away. Useful for picnics or accommodation with self catering kitchens.
Sainsburys Local Unit 2, Northgate Quarter Magdalen Street Another smaller supermarket, this shop also has clearance food and cheap sandwiches and other take-away food.

There also the usual fast-food restaurants like McDonalds and Burger King.

Mid-range

Quod =>, 92-94 High Street, tel +44 01865 202505, daily 12noon-11pm - convenient in its location and of good quality. Emphasis on fish, great desserts. Popular and a bit noisy and exposed, but well worth a visit.
Petit Blanc, Walton St. Raymond Blanc's Oxford French brasserie is full of charm. It is small and intimate, and the food is unquestionably marvellous.
Joe's Cafe =>, Cowley Road - not far from Magdalen College is this trendy cafe, which does brunch during the day and turns into a popular restaurant at night, even if the menu is a little restrictive. Main courses approx £10. A good list of cocktails, perfect for couples wanting a not too posh intimate meal.
Kazbar , Cowley Road - two doors down from Joe's, Kazbar serves amazing tapas in a brilliant atmosphere. Low couches and even lower lighting make this an intimate restaurant, and one that is definitely worth the visit. Tapas dishes from between £2 and £6
Qumin review - very good Indian restaurant on St. Clements (just past Fishers on the other side of the road). About £8-12 per person.
Savannah => - close to the train station, this restaurant provides lovely food at a more reasonable price than the Randolph, and you get to see it cooked in front of you too! Can do large parties.
Zizzi, George Street. Chain pizza restaurant, more upmarket than Pizza Express, with reasonably priced wine list. Good pasta too.
Pizza Express, The Golden Cross, 8 Golden Cross, Cornmarket St, tel +44 01865 790 442 - the Oxford branch of this reliable pizza chain is located upstairs within the Golden Cross development (between the southern end of Cornmarket and the Covered Market) amidst timbered beams and walls, making it a great setting. Pizzas £6-£8. Average meal for two £20 with a drink.

Splurge

Gee's, Banbury Road. This is a stunning restaurant in a Victorian Conservatory simply oozing opulent charm and elegance. A mix of British/Mediterranean cuisine, quite the place to go.
Randolph Hotel => - excellent but expensive. Predominantly English cuisine, with à la carte or fixed price menus. The bar is also lovely, with a wide selection of drinks including some rather extortionate champagne!
The Grand Cafe, 84 High St, tel 01865 204463, open daily 9am-8pm, no cards - only in England could you take afternoon tea in such opulence - their 'Champagne Tea' is an afternoon extravagance that you'll never forget
The Lemon Tree, 268 Woodstock Rd, Oxford, tel 01865 311936 - a couple of miles north from the city centre, but well worth the trek, The Lemon Tree is regarded by many as the finest restaurant in Oxford

Drink

Oxford has many old pubs, as well as newer nightclubs.

Pubs and Bars

Turf Tavern, 4 Bath Place (off New College Lane), tel +44 01865 243 235, open 11am-11pm, Su 12noon-10.30pm - a well-hidden pub, but also well known by locals. Good range of beers. Nice beer garden with coal fires where you can roast marshmallows on chilly evenings in spring and autumn. This ancient pub (a favourite with Inspector Morse) is an unmissable Oxford institution that many consider to be the best pub in the city - in the summer watch out for drenched students enjoying the end of their exams. Pint £2.50.
Rosie O'Gradys Park End Rd Oxford's Irish pub. A good selection of beers and every friday and saturday night they have a live band playing Irish or folk music.
Eagle and Child, 49 St Giles - popularly known as "the bird and the babe", this pub was the frequent haunt of the Inklings, a group of Oxford literary dons that included CS Lewis and JRR Tolkien
The Bear, Blue Boar Street - a small pub, but curiously full of old school ties. The oldest pub in Oxford by its own description, founded in 1492, and probably has the lowest ceilings of any pub in Oxford.
King's Arms, opposite Broad Street and the Sheldonian Theatre - this is a large, mainstream but popular pub where prices are a little high, food takes for ever, but people just keep on returning. Its central location may play a large part in this.
Hobgoblin, St. Aldates. Small and traditional but with adequate seating, with drinks varying in price depending on how early you get there.
The Old Bookbinders' Arms, hidden in the backstreets of Jericho (go down Great Clarendon Street, turn right into Canal Street). Has eccentric decorations, but friendly and with lots of beers.
Frevd's, Jericho. Pronounced 'Freud's', this bar and restaurant occupy a grand church building producing a unique, slightly austere atmosphere. When buzzing with people, this becomes a great place for an evening out; the restaurant area is cleared to become a dance floor later in the evening. They serve a range of cocktails from about £3 upwards.
Raoul's, Jericho. A trendy and upmarket cocktail bar. Often very busy at weekends.
The Beat Cafe, Little Clarendon Street. Adjacent to the much loved G&D's, this small bar offers an extensive range of seriously potent cocktails from about £4. Happy Hour until 9pm.
The Duke of Cambridge, Little Clarendon Street. Fashionable for young students wanting great cocktails with some cheeky bar staff. Swisher than you might expect.
The Bullingdon, Cowley Road. Lively and unpretentious with a mixed clientele. Live music and club nights in the back room. Jazz club on Tuesday nights.
Half Moon, St. Clement's. Ignore the plastic faux-Irish outlets in the city centre and head out along the High St and over Magdalen Bridge and enjoy the relaxed vibe in this small, friendly pub.
Angel and Greyhound, St. Clement's. Popular with Friday evening after-work crowd, letting their hair down. In quieter moments good for board games. Food is average.
Head of the River, Folly Bridge, tel +44 01865 721600 - perfectly located, right on the Thames. Follow St Aldate's down past Christ Church college until you reach the river (the pub's on the far bank). This place buzzes on summer evenings, when the large garden gets extremely busy. The interior is pretty miserable, so avoid if the sun isn't shining.

Nightclubs

Certain weeknights are student-only at some clubs, so you should probably check before going.

The Bridge, 6-9 Hythe Bridge Street, tel 01865 242526. Nightclub frequented by students. Two floors - R&B on one, dance on the other. Plenty of acceptable seating, long bars and quite importantly clean bathroom facilities! Drinks can be a bit pricey: bottled beer £3 (no draught), double vodka coke £2.70, entry £4-£5. VIP room.
Maxwell's, 36-37 Queen Street, tel 01865 242192, open 11:30am-2am daily. Bar and restaurant by day; cocktails and nightclub by evening. Claims to have the longest bar in Oxford. £3-£5 cover (after 10pm).
Park End, 37-39 Park End Street, tel 01865 250181, open Mon-Weds 21:00-02:00, Thurs-Sat 21:30-03:00. Nightclub frequented by students and locals. Oxford's young and beautiful meet here to drink heavily and dance to uninspired pop tunes. £1-£5 cover, £3 pints, £3 mixed drinks (some nightly drink specials). Monday is Brookes student night, Wednesday is OUSU student night (many bottled drinks £1.50). Student ID required for both.
Filth - nightclub frequented by students. Watch out for the sticky floors. Situated above Sainsbury's in The Westgate Centre. Go here for pure cheese. Open until 3am most nights.
The Zodiac - live, usually loud, music and eclectic, fashionable nightclub
Po Na Na's, 13-15 Magdalen Street - don't be put off by the inconspicuous entrance - below is a relatively small, mysteriously decorated (apparently its Moroccan), funky cave, with great not-too-loud music, and an unusual and relaxed atmosphere. Cocktails 2 for 1 between 9 and 10:30.
Thirst - Cocktail bar, drinks from £1.75, open Mon-Weds 18:30-02:00, Sun 18:30-01:30. 7-8 Park End Street, tel 01865 242044

Sleep

Oxford has a large number of B&Bs and guesthouses, located both centrally and in the suburbs. Check the website of the Oxford Association of Hotels and Guesthouses to get some ideas of available options.

Most hotels in the city centre are pretty expensive, and you pay almost London prices.

Budget

YHA Oxford =>, 2a Botley Road, tel (in UK) 0870 770 5970, (outside UK) +44 1865 727275, fax +44 01865 251182, mailto:oxford@yha.org.uk - housed in a brand new, purpose-built building next to the railway station and minutes from the city centre, prices from £20.50 adult, £15.50 under 18s
Central Backpackers Hostel =>, 13 Park End Street, tel 01865 242288, from £14 pppn - only recently opened and situated on one of Oxford's liveliest streets. Clean and airy.
Oxford Backpackers =>, 9a Hythe Bridge Street, tel +44 (0)1865 721761, fax +44 (0)1865 203293, mailto:oxford@hostels.co.uk - conveniently located for both the rail and bus stations (2 mins walk), dorm beds from £13. cheap and a little dingy

Moderate

The Old Bank Hotel =>, 92-94 High Street - Single suites start from £150 a night.

Splurge

Randolph Hotel =>, Beaumont Street, tel +44 (0)870 400 8200, fax +44 (0)1865 791 678 - offers a very plush English accommodation experience and is centrally located directly opposite the Ashmolean Museum. Can be hired for conference also if required.

Buy

Covered Market =>, High Street. Oxford has the oldest covered market in England. Unusual small shops, including a chocolate shop, cake shop, fine butchers, hat shop, florists, glassware, and charming cafes.

A large number of shops in the city centre specialise in selling the ubiquitous Oxford University range of souvenirs. One is official, the others less so, but all do a roaring trade in T-shirts, sweaters, calendars and paraphernalia:

the University of Oxford Shop =>, 106 The High Street, tel +44 (0) 1865 247414, fax +44 (0) 1865 724379, open Mo-Sa 9am-5.30pm, Bank Holidays and Sundays in June 11am-4pm, Sundays in July and August 11am-5pm - since 1990, the official outlet for official university souvenirs and gifts

Books

Unsurprisingly for a university city, Oxford is noted for both antiquarian, specialist and new books.

Blackwell's Books, 48-51 Broad Street, opposite the Sheldonian Theatre - founded in 1879, Blackwell's main Oxford store is a veritable tourist attraction in itself, the vast 10,000 square foot Norrington Room excavated beneath Trinity College Gardens laying claim to being the largest space dedicated to book sales in Europe. Another 9 specialty branches of this Oxford institution dot the city...

Equipment

Elmer Cotton Sports, 18-19 Turl Street, tel 01865 241 010, fax 01865 790 768 - probably the most convenient sports store in the heart of the city, official suppliers of Dark Blue label sportswear and Oxford University Sports => kit and memorabilia

Get out

Blenheim Palace => - located 8 miles north-west of Oxford in the picturesque and historic town of Woodstock on the A44 Evesham Road - well worth a visit
Bicester - some 20? miles north of Oxford, a nice little town with great discount shopping from the outlet stores at Bicester Village

Contact

Oxford public library in the Westgate Shopping Centre has free internet available. Mices Internet Cafe at Glouster Green provide an overpriced service, and the hostels near the train station all provide the Internet to residents.