Pakbeng

Pakbeng is in Bakeo Province, Laos. This small village lies half-way between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang on the banks of the Mekong river. It`s also the eastern end of Road 2, originating in Udom Xai. To call Pakbeng sleepy is an understatment. It's quiet to the point of being dead. This is until a slow boat from Huay Xai appears. Then it looks like every Lao from about 20 miles around arrives! A warning - at this point the boat will be raided by kids. They grab rucksacks and jump of the boat with them in the hope of earning extra money as sherpas. I've not heard of anyone having problems with this from a security point of view, and, as usual with Lao, they don't seem cheeky with the money. A 1000kip note was treated like a gold bar!

Get in

Most visitors will have to stop here over-night on the slow-boat trip to/from Luang Prabang. It`s also possible to reach the place by bus-- this is a rough and long option.

By boat

The boat-landing is at the end of Road 2 on the Mekong. Slow boat leave in the morning in both directions. They depart when full but expect to start at around 9am. The dropping off boat normally arrives at about 5pm, but this is Laos, so bear in mind that this is a guideline. Laos transportation goes when the driver can be bothered. It's best just to relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. And have a beer, of course.

By road

Pick-ups make the trip to Udom Xai around 7am and leave at the northern end of town on Road 2.

Get around

There are only a few streets, so walk around.

See

There is nothing to see except the mighty Mekong and rural Laos life.

Do

Find a bed, eat something and sleep before power gets off (10pm) ... and prepare for another day on the boat

Eat

Several guesthouses and some "restaurants" offer food, but don`t expect anything special. Locals set up small sandwich stands along the road to the waterfront each morning. You can buy basic sandwiches of bread and Laughing Cow cheese.

Drink

Standard beer options are available, at inflated prices. To insure a good nights sleep, try the local "lao-lao bong" -- water poured over fermented rice and slipped through a straw.

Sleep

Standards are low at this village near-the-end-of-the-world. Just look around as things change fast. A room with shared bathroom will cost 2US$ while an own Bathroom will costs an extra 1-2US$. Electricity is available from around 6pm to 10pm, while hot water seems to be non-existent. Touts are prevalent in Pakbeng, and you will be bothered. However, these touts are very laid back, especially after Thailand. If you are after a really cheap option, I was able to get a mattress and a Mosquito net under a veranda for about 0.50US$. Just watch out for monkeys.

Luang Say Lodge, the only "up-market" option. Can be prebooked on =>.