Tijuana

Tijuana is a city in Baja California Norte, Mexico right across the border from San Diego, California, United States of America. Tijuana has a population of around 2 million. It has grown from a small border town with a bad reputation into a thriving modern city, with a large middle class. Its proximity to the United States makes it a very popular tourist destination, especially for day-trippers from San Diego.

Districts

Playas
Zona Centro - including Avenida Revolucion
Zona Norte
Zona Rio

Understand

Tijuana is a transit point for illegal immigration into the United States, as well as the destination for any illegal Mexican immigrants deported from the US West Coast. As such, it is swollen with poor people with no roots in the city who inhabit shantytowns.

Apart from these poor migrants, Tijuana is one of the wealthiest cities in Mexico with a thriving middle class, whose disposable income has fueled Tijuana's transformation into a modern city with a vibrant culture.

Frequent visitors to Tijuana use the term "gringo-friendly" for a shop, bar, or restaurant in which a non-Spanish speaking customer will be at ease. A place is gringo-friendly if the staff here is accustomed to dealing with American tourists, if they speak English and have English-language menus. Places that are not gringo-friendly may require use of Spanish, and patience. Just because a place is not gringo-friendly does not imply that the people there will not be friendly or that tourists will not be welcome.

While the Mexican peso is the legal currency, US dollars are widely accepted.

Get in

Most tourists enter Tijuana through the border crossing at San Ysidro, which is reportedly the busiest border crossing in the world. The crossing can be made by car, bus, bicycle, or on foot.

By plane

Tijuana International is serviced by the major Mexican airlines. San Diego International airport is only a few miles north of the border and can be used as a transit point for travellers wishing to visit Tijuana.

By train

The last stop on the southbound San Diego Trolley will deposit you at the border. However, you must still cross the freeway on the pedestrian bridge by going up, across and back down. Then there are then a couple of one-way gates you cross through.

By car

Take I-5 or I-805 to south. Either park at the border and continue on foot or you drive into Mexico. Driving from the US to Mexico usually requires no stopping. Driving across the border from Mexico to the US may involve a long wait, especially during evening rush hour or on holiday weekends. Mexican insurance is required, which can be bought immediately before crossing the border.

By foot

Many people drive to the border, park on the US side, and walk across. There are many lots available for this, which charge up to $7 a day.

By bus

Mexicoach buses leave from the parking lots on the US side, cross into Mexico, and drop you off at the bus station on Revolucion Avenue in the middle of the downtown tourist district. These buses run during the day, every day, and cost $3 per trip.

Get around

Cabs are abundant throughout the city. If you are walking into Tijuana via the San Ysidro border crossing, you will be immediately confronted with a massive array of yellow cabs waiting to take you into downtown. This group of cab drivers are conveniently located, but be sure to negotiate a price before jumping into a cab.

Throughout the city, cab drivers stand on the sidewalks and solicit customers. It is almost impossible to avoid them, so finding a cab should never be a problem. Yellow cabs do not have meters, so agree with your driver in advance what the cost will be. Taxi Libre cabs have meters and are cheaper than yellow cabs, though you might have to remind the driver to use the meter.

See

Avenida Revolucion in the Zona Centro - the main tourist area.
Bullfights - Tijuana has two bullrings, which are open during the summer months.

Do

Tijuana is on the ocean, but is not known for its beaches, for boating, or as a seaside resort. However, it is in cabbing distance of Rosarito - the trip will cost about $20, while Mexicoach will bus you there for around $2. Ensenada is further down the coast but easily accessible by car or bus.

Buy

There are disappointingly few bargains to be had in Tijuana. Silver and leather products are allegedly cheaper than in the US. Souvenir shops abound. Many of the items sold in the souvenir shops are actually purchased in the San Diegan swap meets and brought into Mexico and resold to tourists.

Eat

Apart from the abundant, over-priced tourist traps, local cuisine ranges from world-class restaurants to locals-only eateries and street vendors selling tacos. Food poisoning is more of a risk at the cheaper establishments, but will probably not be a concern. In many sit down restaurants, musicians will wander in and play for tip. All such musicians are extremely good. If cuisine is an important factor in your visit to Mexico, be sure to check out the smaller taco shops, where you will be able to enjoy the best carne asada tacos in the world for under thirty cents each. Also delicious are Churros made by street vendors, and the "hot dog" imitations sold as well. Be sure to avoid vendors that are not being patronized by locals.

Budget

Café La Especial, Av. Revolucion 718, in the heart tourist district. Down the stairs in a pedestrian alley. This inexpensive restaurant is the opposite of the noisy, over-priced tourist traps that line Revolucion. Standard Mexican dishes served in a very relaxed, quiet environment. Gringo-friendly, though very popular with locals.

La Espadaña, Sánchez Taboada Blvd. 10813, Zona Rio. Called the best breakfast in Tijuana. Very inexpensive, but nonetheless attracts a very upscale crowd.

Mid-range

Caesar's, hard to miss on Avenida Revolucion in Zona Centro. Reputedly the birthplace of the famous Caesar's salad, in 1924. It is still served there according to its original recipe, mixed and served at your table in accordance to tradition. Has all the appearance of a tourist trap but has a good reputation for quality at a good price. A whole lobster here is $20. Tijuana being what it is, Caesar's also has a strip club which is accessible through the restaurant - keep in mind if you have kids along.

Chiki Jai, corner of Revolucion and 7th in Zona Centro. Unpretentious, non-touristy Basque restaurant that's been there forever. Their margaritas have a good reputation.

Sushi House, Zona Rio, right by the Office Depot on Paseo de los Heroes.

La Cantina de los Remedios, Zona Rio, northeast corner of the Abraham Lincoln traffic circle on Paseo de los Heroes. Vast liquor selection, all of which is visible on the immense shelving along the wall behind the bar. Great menu of traditional and modern Mexican cuisine. Two features are of special interest - first are the quotations and pithy sayings in Spanish along all the ceiling beams. The second is the extensive use of Loteria cards to decorate the ceilings as well as the backs of the menus. Both are great for practicing Spanish while enjoying your meal.

Splurge

Cien Años, Zona Rio, on a side street off Paseo de los Heroes, across from the Mundo Divertido family fun center. Open for lunch and dinner. Very famous. Supposedly every recipe on the menu is over 100 years old (hence the name "Cien Años", one-hundred years). Some recipes supposedly date back to Aztec times. Menu includes a number of very strange items such as corn fungus, and bone marrow soup. Gringo-friendly but Spanish is useful. Restaurant is small, with beautiful decor, and a relaxing atmosphere. Prices range from moderate to expensive.

La Costa, Seafood restaurant on 7th Street in Zona Centro, around the corner from the Mexicoach station. Expensive but excellent dishes.

La Diferencia, Blvd. Sánchez Taboada No.10611-A Zona Río, between Blvd. Abelardo L. Rodríguez & Escuadrón 201. Excellent and innovative Mexican dishes, and great tamarindo margaritas. Moderately expensive by Tijuana standards but well worth it (~$95 for 2 people, incl. margaritas, wine, appetizer, entree & dessert). Highly recommended.

Drink

It is wrong to visit Tijuana without drinking tequila, perhaps in a margarita.

Beer drinkers are well-advised to visit the "Cerveceria Tijuana," the Tijuana Brewery, and its brewpub. It is located on Blvd. Fundadores, a few minutes by taxi south of the Ave. Revolucion shopping district. Not only do they brew and serve five different Eastern European-style lager beers, but they also have a reasonably-priced food menu. The brewpub is especially impressive because it is designed to look just like a European pub, with dark wood paneling, stained glass, and hardwood floors. One area even has a large window looking into the brewery floor, where you can see the workers busy at their brewing.

Sleep

Budget

There is a beautiful country home, near the beach, where all travelers are welcome by its wonderful host Andres Apreza, just ask for Andy and he'll be more than happy to help you. He will show you around the city aboard his truck, what the locals like to call "La Troca".For more info. e mail Andres "andresapreza@hotmail.com" You will have a blast!!

Mid-range

At the north end of Zona Centro, directly adjacent to the large arch spanning Ave. Revolucion, is the Hotel Nelson. It is reasonably-priced and clean, and has a bar as well as a restaurant downstairs. The major drawback would be traffic noise from the myriad bars and clubs along this tourist-oriented street.

Splurge

Stay safe

Though Tijuana has a bad reputation, the reality is it is safer than many large cities in the US. Nonetheless many scams and street crimes do occur, especially against tourists. If you exercise common sense you will have no problems.

Police shakedowns - This has been a problem over the years, but is getting less frequent every day. Tijuana police have historically been poorly paid and supplemented their incomes by accepting bribes, or mordida, from tourists who react out of ignorance or fear. They didn't invent this practice without our cooperation. Wages have been dramatically raised due to reforms issued by President Fox. However, if you indicate you are willing, the officer may accept payment for the fine. Stories about Police stopping people at random search them, returning their wallets with somewhat fewer bills than before are extremely rare these days, if not extinct. If you have committed a crime and prefer dealing directly with the police, most will still accommodate your illicit request, but it is your actions that perpetuate this bad situation. You are well advised to not carry ATM cards, excess credit cards or lots of cash--just as you would in any large metropolitan area. Only carry a photo copy of your Passport or Visa. Park in well marked parking lots with security guards. Police prey on foreigners who commit crimes such as pedophilia or buying drugs. They will also attempt to scare foreign gay tourists by telling them homosexuality is a crime; it is not. If are willing to pay and they find an ATM card they may take you to an ATM machine and force you to withdraw money because they know you do not want these crimes reported. Corruption still exists, so beware. But this is usually done when you are alone after a night on the town, are slightly intoxicated, and your actions make you a potential victim. When speaking to an officer, stay calm and respectful. Never offend or belittle the officer or the country of Mexico. The word is, if you have done nothing wrong, stand your ground and they will eventually let you go. You can insist on seeing a judge, and explain what happened. Most likely the officer will just give a warning and send on your way. In fact, you are entitled to a written ticket, and you can pay the fine by mail. In any case, these made up charges are usually only a small fine, most likely less than the bribe you would offer; you do not go to jail.

Theft - Pickpockets can be found in certain heavy tourist areas. You are generally safe in areas such as the Zona Rio, Playas de Tijuana, El Hipodromo, and many others, just make sure to always be cautious when visiting alone. The best targets for theft are those who speak no spanish, wander alone (specially at night), are intoxicated, and travel to the Avenida Revolucion. If you find yourself being swarmed by small children who want to sell you something, be aware that they could be trying to pick your pockets.

Drug-dealer informants - In many bars and on the street, it is common to be offered illegal narcotic drugs for sale. Some of these peddlers work with the police. They sell someone the drugs, then tell the police that person is carrying. The police shake the person down for cash, and confiscate the drugs, which they presumably return to the original peddler, who goes looking for another victim.

The $20 switch - very common scam. You buy a beer and give the waiter $20, he brings you back change for a $10, hoping you are too drunk or it is too dark to notice. Sometimes the waiter will palm the $20 and show you a $1, claiming that's what you gave him.

Donkey shows - There are very few clubs on Revolucion that offer anything of the kind. As you walk down the street barkers try to entice you to come in; smile and walk on.

Prescription drugs - Though your prescription drugs may be much cheaper here, carrying large quantities or carrying them without your prescription can land you many "years" in a Mexican prison. Some foreign prescriptions may not be vaild in Mexico. If you break the law, you will be dealt with accordingly. However, this does not included medications which often change in status in the USA from prescription to over-the-counter (e.g. Allegra, Claritin, Zyrtec, Pepcid AC, etc.) Such medications are readly available without a prescription in Mexico. They're mainly concerned about prescription drugs which have the potential to be abused.

A couple words of advice: Many American tourists visit Tijuana only to experience the lewd and shady aspects of the city. The vast majority of such tourists confine their visit to the Avenida Revolucion and experience a very limited view of Tijuana and Mexico. If you are savvy, you will expand your horizons by going to areas where you might actually run into locals, not just the horde of tourists who wander the streets. Also, it is advisable to learn even a couple phrases in Spanish so you are not completely rude and oblivious to everyone around you.

External links

Hungry Hiker - useful restaurant review site

Sign on San Diego - apt review of food stands